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  • 甚麼是法式甜點(French Pastry)? 一位法式甜點主廚的心得.
  • Jack在進去Chicago Pastry School進修之前有2個月空檔,於是他回去老東家-Auberge du Pommier,多倫多最知名的法國料理餐廳,跟甜點主廚Laura學做法國甜點.一個月以來,Jack端出成績,將他的作品照片寄給我欣賞.同時請Laura講述一下她的心得.原文與圖片刊登如下..........
  • 1. 法式甜點的特色在那裡?

    --- 不管甜點是由法國那個地區所供應, 形式是簡單的鄉村口味或是精細的宴會甜點, 法式甜點永遠使用最高品質的原料,最新鮮與當令食材. 法國甜點有著長久歷史, 現代的甜點的來源也是法國. 所以說任何形式的甜點, 只要使用最好的原料, 在用心與巧工技術下製作, 均可稱為法式甜點.

    1.      How would you describe French Desserts ? (What makes it French?)
    - French desserts no matter what region of the country they come from, or if they are simple country food or fine dining always focus on top quality ingredients that are fresh and in season.  The French have a very long history of dessert, most modern desserts have come from France, so in a way a dessert that uses great ingredients with respect and good technique is French.

                                               
                                                (本文所附圖片均為Jack的作品)

     

    2.      身為西點主廚, 你最喜好那幾種傳統法式甜點?

    --- 我喜愛古典的甜點, 是香櫞塔(一種檸檬布丁塔). 當它的檸檬餡清新甜淡搭配完美脆皮, 凝乳平滑順口的感覺…., 再也沒有更美味的甜點了.

    --- 還有一品我喜愛的的奶凍(脆皮焦糖布丁)—Crème Brulee. 它可以是傳統的香草口味, 或者是現代的拉普山小種茶味, 可能性無限. 我喜歡那種突破焦糖脆皮讓內部柔軟布丁呈現的感覺. 如果時間搭配完美, 那種酥軟層次,冷熱交融,口齒留香你只能用儘身體所有感覺去享用.

    --- 最後告訴你一種與我底心最貼近的法式甜點是巧克力慕斯. 我喜愛巧克力, 將它混合在濃軟的慕斯裡, 做得對的話, 那是最好的巧克力了.

    2. Name some traditional French Desserts that you enjoy, and why ?
    - I love French classic desserts like Tarte Citron (lemon tart) if a lemon tart is light, fresh, clean and marries a perfect crisp crust with a silky baked curd, there is nothing finer.
    Creme Brulee is another beloved classic french dessert.  It can be the traditional vanilla based custard, or a modern twist , say a Lapsang Souchong tea brulee, the possibilities are endless.  I love a good brulee for the way the soft custard is revealed by cracking through the burnt sugar crust.  If done right it is a blend of hot, cold soft and crunchy.  Makes you use most of your senses
    And finally a chocolate mousse is near and dear to my heart.  I LOVE chocolate, and to have it bended into a soft, rich mousse, if done right, brings out the best qualities of the chocolate.
                                                  

     

    3.      自從你開始接觸法式甜點後, 它們有新的變化嗎?

    --- 法式甜點的變化是一種緩慢的過程. 有那麼多的傳統值得尊敬, 在法國料理與糕餅的製作往往遵循古老的技術與理念. 它們是那麼的完美, 不需要做任何的改變. 如果有甚麼不同, 會是因地的取材不同, 或口味濃淡或水果的量寡等而已.

    3. Do you think French pastries have evolved ever since when you first started learning it.
    -The evolution of French pastries is a gradual process.  There is so much classic history to be respected, in French cooking and pastry making you stick to the old techniques, and ideas.  They are so good you really don`t need to re-invent them.  The evolution part is in using different products depending on where in the world you are, and mabey lightening up a bit on the rich dairy, going with more fruit things.
                                                         

     

    4.      可以預測法式甜點今後發展的趨勢嗎?

    --- 根據我到處旅行觀察的感想, 法式甜點在材料上運用較多的異國水果. 不要忘記, 法國曾是一個殖民國家. 曾擁有許多殖民地, 現在利用殖民地的當地材料運用在甜點上的趨勢越來越多. 口味就愈異國化.

    4. Is there a coming trend for french pastries in the next coming years? (If no, then just skip it)
    -From my travels and observations I see there is a movement in French Pastries towards more exotic fruits.  Keep in mind the French colonized many countries, and always explored the foods, respectfully learning a great deal about the new delights they encountered.  So I see more of these fresh fruit flavours becoming the trend in French Pastries.
                                                  

     

    5.      你怎麼來描述你的作品風格?

    --- 我比較受國際建築風格所影響. 我的餐後甜點盤面看起來簡單乾淨及流暢. 其實每道甜點都極富深意. 我不在雜亂的環境下工作, 而且甜點盤面也不能雜亂.  我的甜點美妙之處開始於當客人把叉子放入嘴口之際. 我的目的是利用美味讓人生更豐味深刻. 所以一小塊就可喚醒客人味覺, 而最後一口時, 客人全身已感覺融入享受之中. 恨不得再來一口.

    5. How would you describe your style of pastries and desserts?
    - My style of Pastries is very much inspired by Internationalist Architecture.  At first glance my plated work seems simple, clean,, fluid.  There is a great deal of thought put into the things that are n the plate, I don`t work in a cluttered work space, and I don`t like to make cluttered dessert plates. The true beauty of my work is revealed when you put the fork to your mouth.  I aim for intense, full flavours brought to life by using great products, with respect for technique.  It should be just small enough  serving of these intense flavours, that you are at maximum sensory overload with the last bite, but then as soon as it is gone you wish you had just one more bite! 
                                               

     

    6.      對於要學法式甜點的學生你有何忠告?

    --- 我總是勸告他們要節制用糖. 對於一個重視質感,口味,形狀與顏色的甜點, 重甜往往使美味失色. 是的, 它是甜點, 甜味是餘香. 可是想想看整個用餐過程, 甜點必須考慮當晚的主菜, 並視為主食的收尾.

    --- 我也鼓勵學生勤加練習, 甜點是一門科學與化學, 遵守食譜的方法是有原因的. 如果試做失敗了, 你的朋友也許仍然覺得好吃, 但你仍然必須重來直到成功.

    6. What advice would you give to a young student who would like to study french pastries.  (The don'ts and Do's)
    -Any student who wishes to study French Pastries I always advise, if they have a sweet tooth, to try to get past the love of sugar.  Overly sweet desserts are not as well thought out and developed as desserts that have been built around textures, flavours , shapes and colours.  Yes , it is dessert, and sweet should be the end taste, but try to think of the whole plate as finish to a fine meal, or an experience to be shared with a companion.
    I also advise students to try to practise as much as possible.  Pastry is really about science and chemistry, the receipe is written to be followed, always for a reason!
    If you  make a mistake, it will still taste good to your friends, just start over again.
                                              

     

    7.      甜點與糕餅對你多重要?

    --- 我愛甜點. 它是烹飪裡一個迷人的部份. 它是用餐的結束前最後甜食, 所以它可以讓整頓用餐愉快或留下美好記憶. 我對甜味的感覺並不靈敏, 所以對於其他甜點主廚的創作或技藝總是非常渴求學習.

    7. How important is dessert / pastries to you? (I remember you explaining to me how a dessert completes a meal etc,etc).
    - I LOVE dessert.  It is such a fasinating part of cooking, and well, it is the last thing you eat at a meal, so a good dessert can make or break the dining experience.
    I don`t have  a sweet tooth, so I am always looking for desserts that show a pastry chef`s knowledge/ technique, and their sense of harmony within the overall creation.
                                              

    8. 關於法式甜點糕菓,廚師工作或使用工具等經驗, 你有那些可分享給餐飲學生,甜食愛好者或家庭主婦等人.

    --- 法式甜點或糕餅是一切古典甜點文化的基礎. 製作法式甜點沒有想像中那麼困難. 我總是推薦學生從好產品做起, 當然開始之前先讀熟食譜.

    --- 我喜歡使用工具, 運用它們來啟發創意. 每天都使用美好的工具會使心情愉快. 所以如果要買製作工具, 最好多花一些錢買最好的工具. 它們長期耐用, 而且讓作品做得更加完美. 最後你會發現買好品質的工具是幫自己省錢.

    8. Anything else you would like to share with the culinary students, pastry lovers and home bakers about french desserts, pastries, your work, about the importance of having the right tools, etc etc.
    - French pastries and desserts are  the foundation of classic dessert culture.  They are not as hard to make as they might look.  I always recommend start with good product, and of course, read the receipe before starting! 
    I love tools, they let me play, be creative , and just plain have fun with all the beautiful things I get to make every workday.  If you are buying any tool, it is better to pay a bit more for the best tool made.  They last longer and do a better job in the end, so I sort of see them as saving me money in the long run.
                                            
                                     (甜心Laura - 快樂的心情似乎是製作法式甜點必備條件)
                                                       

    Jack,  I hope there is something for you to work with in these answers, it was fn to get to think about French Pastries and why I DO love them so much!

    Hope all is well with you.
    When are you off to Chicago?

    Al the best,
    Laura








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